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Essential
Architecture- Berlin
Potsdamer Platz |
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Potsdamer Platz |
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PRE-WAR |
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Erich Mendelsohn's Columbushaus |
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Palast Hotel 1899 and
1945 |
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POST-WALL |
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The famous Sony Center At Night |
Potsdamer Platz
Roof of "Sony Center".Potsdamer Platz is an important square and
traffic intersection in the center of Berlin, Germany, about 1 km south
of the Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor) and the Reichstag (German
Parliament Building). It is named after the city of Potsdam, some 25 km
to the south west, and marks the point where the old road from Potsdam
passed through the city wall of Berlin at the Potsdam Gate (Potsdamer
Tor).
Pre-War
The heyday of Potsdamer Platz was in the 1920s and
1930s. By this time it had developed into the busiest traffic center in
all of Europe. Together with the Alexanderplatz, 2 km to the east, it
was at the heart of Berlin's nightlife. Potsdamer Platz however
represented the geographical centre of the city, the meeting place of
five of its busiest streets in a star-shaped intersection deemed the
transport hub of the continent. These were:
Königgrätzer Straße (northern portion), leading north to the
Brandenburg Gate, now called Ebertstraße (in the Nazi period it was
renamed Hermann Göring Straße).
Leipziger Straße, leading east.
Königgrätzer Straße (southern portion), actually leading mainly
south east, now called Stresemannstraße (in the Nazi period it was
called Saarland Straße).
Potsdamer Straße, developed out of that old road to Potsdam,
leading south west, now called Alte Potsdamer Straße (today a
pedestrianised cul-de-sac, superseded by a new section - the Neue
Potsdamer Straße, leading due west and then curving southwards to rejoin
its old course at the Potsdamer Brücke (Potsdam Bridge), over the
Landwehrkanal).
Bellevuestraße, leading north west through the Tiergarten to
Schloss Bellevue.
In the immediate area were hundreds of shops, hotels,
restaurants, cinemas, theatres, dance-halls, cafes, bars, wine-houses
and clubs, many of them internationally known. One of the world’s
biggest and most luxurious department stores (Wertheim), was sited here,
together with a huge multi-national-themed eating establishment (the
Haus Vaterland), that could hold 8,000 people, and containing the
world’s largest restaurant, which could seat 2,500 on its own. A major
railway terminus (the Potsdamer Bahnhof), handling up to 80,000
passengers a day, was also close by, with Europe’s busiest interchange
of surface and underground rail lines. 600 trams also passed through
every hour, running on 40 different routes.
It is widely claimed (though this is subject to some
disagreement), that the world's first electric street lights were
installed here in 1882. What is not refuted is that Europe's first
traffic lights were erected here in 1924 in an attempt to control the
sheer volume of traffic passing through. These lights were mounted on a
five-sided 8.5 metre high tower, at the top of which a policeman sat in
a small cabin and switched the lights manually, though they were
automated after a few years (a replica of this tower was erected in the
late 1990s close to its original location).
In 1923 Germany's first ever radio broadcast was made from a
building (Vox-Haus) close by in Potsdamer Straße.
World War II and Cold War
As was the case in most of Berlin, almost all of the
buildings around Potsdamer Platz were turned to rubble by air raids and
heavy artillery bombardment during the last years of World War II.
Things were not helped by the close proximity of Adolf Hitler's enormous
new Reich Chancellery building (just one block away in Voßstraße), and
many other Nazi government edifices nearby as well, and so Potsdamer
Platz was right in a major target area.
When the city was divided into sectors by the occupying Allies at
the end of the war, the square found itself on the boundary between the
American, British, and Soviet sectors.
As Cold War tensions rose during the 1950s, restrictions were
placed on travel between the Soviet sector (East Berlin) and the western
sectors (West Berlin). Lying on this invisible frontier, Potsdamer Platz
was no longer an important destination for Berliners.
With the construction of the Berlin Wall on August 13, 1961 along
this intracity frontier, Potsdamer Platz found itself divided in two.
What had once been a busy intersection had become desolate. With the
clearance of ruined buildings on both sides (on the eastern side, this
was done chiefly to give border guards a clear view of would-be escapees
and an uninterrupted line of fire), almost nothing was left in an area
of dozens of hectares.
After the Wall
After the fall of the Berlin Wall in November 1989, ex-Pink Floyd
member Roger Waters staged a gigantic charity concert of his former
band's rock extravaganza The Wall on July 21, 1990 to commemorate the
end of the division between East and West Germany. The concert took
place on the then-empty Potsdamer Platz and featured many guest
superstars.
After 1990, the square became the focus of attention again, since
it was an attractive location suddenly near the center of the city. The
city government chose to divide the area into four parts, each to be
sold to a commercial investor, which then planned new construction.
During the building-phase the Potsdamer Platz was the largest building
site in Europe.
The largest of these four parts went to Daimler-Benz, now part of
Daimler-Chrysler, who charged Renzo Piano with creating a master plan
for the new construction. The individual buildings were then built by
many individual architects according to that plan. This includes the
remarkable Potsdamer Platz No. 1 by Hans Kollhoff, now home to a number
of prestigious law firms (in the photo on the right, the tall brick
building in the center).
Potsdamer Platz (June 2003)The second largest part went to Sony,
which erected its new European headquarters there. This new Sony Center
by Helmut Jahn, an impressive, yet light monolith of glass and steel
(the rightmost building in the picture on the right), is considered by
many to be one of the finest pieces of modern architecture in Berlin.
Potsdamer Platz (October 2005)The whole project was the subject
of much criticism from the beginning, and still not everyone applauds
how the district was commercialized and replanned. However, the plaza
now attracts about 70,000 visitors a day, and many critics are surprised
by the success of the new quarter. At almost any time of the day, the
place is packed with people. It has become a must-see for visitors, a
top shopping area for Berliners, and probably the number-one spot to go
for film fans, with more than 40 screens in three cinemas, a film
academy and a film museum.
Some scenes of the 1987 Wim Wenders movie Der Himmel über Berlin
(English title: Wings of Desire) are located on the old, almost entirely
void Potsdamer Platz before the Wall fell. The movie thus gives a good
impression of the surroundings at the time, which are completely unlike
what can be seen today.
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New buildings have mushroomed on Potsdamer Platz and the adjacent
octagonal Leipziger Platz, restoring the original shape of the squares
that had disappeared for decades, buried under border installations.
In the 1920s, Potsdamer Platz ranked as one of the busiest
traffic junctions in the world thanks not least to the presence of
Potsdam Station, which was located roughly where the semi-circular front
of the Potsdamer Platz Kolonnaden stands today. A replica of the first
set of traffic lights in Berlin dating back to 1924 recalls the busy
past here. It was installed in 1997.
The buildings in this area were badly damaged in the war. During
the popular uprising of 17th June 1953, the relatively unscathed
Columbus Building, originally constructed to designs by architect Erich
Mendelsohn in 1927, was set on fire. The Vaterland Building erected by
Franz Schwechten in 1912 was damaged at the same time, the remains of
which were demolished in 1976.
After the building of the Wall, the "vanished" Potsdamer Platz
soon became a tourist attraction. A viewing platform on the west side
enabled people to see what was happening across the border.
On 11th November 1989, just two days after the first breach in
the Wall, a provisional crossing point was set up at Potsdamer Platz.
The DaimlerChrysler precinct was the first new development
project to be completed on Potsdamer Platz in 1998. The Sony Center
followed suit in 2000. The Park-Kolonnaden and the Beisheim Center with
the new Ritz Carlton hotel were completed in the years thereafter.
The Leipziger Platz octagon is beginning to take shape. The red
Info Box on the square was dismantled in January 2001 and by November
2002, the square itself had been planted with grassy lawns and trees.
New structures such as the Canadian Embassy and the office buildings on
the southeastern corner already give a glimpse of its future shape.
A few segments of the hinterland Wall on Leipziger Platz
triggered a controversial debate at the turn of the millennium, as they
stood in the way of development plans for the area. The Berlin Senate
decided to donate three of them to the United Nations, which were
subsequently installed outside the UN building in New York. The
remaining segments and the watch-tower were listed as historical
monuments in August 2001. The tower has been transferred eight metres to
the east.
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www.essential-architecture.com
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